The focal point of Pennsylvania's forty-mile slice of Lake Erie waterfront is the pleasant city of ERIE itself. It bears no resemblance to the major urban centers of Pittsburgh or Philadelphia, being entirely low-rise and extremely leafy; indeed you hardly realize you are downtown until you find yourself in the shady park-like town square, on 6th Street between the main thoroughfares of Peach and State streets. There are several places of cultural interest in the city, all within walking distance of here, including the Neoclassical Court House and several museums devoted to history, art and science; better than these, the Erie Maritime Museum at 150 E Front St in the Bayfront Historical District (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm; $4) has a fascinating display on the geological and ecological development of the Great Lakes and also focuses on warships of different periods; the elegant US Brig Niagara is usually moored outside and is part of the museum.

Undoubtedly, Erie's main attraction is the elongated comma-shaped peninsula of Presque Isle State Park , which bends east from its narrow neck three miles west of downtown until it almost touches the city's northernmost tip. The park is maintained as a nature preserve and has wide sandy beaches good for swimming, backed by thick woods offering a series of trails. The Park Office (daily 8am-4pm; tel 814/833-7424) provides general information and a map. Those without a vehicle can hop on the Presque Isle Aquabus (Mon noon-6pm, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; $3 one-way, $5 round-trip), which leaves on the hour from Dobbins Landing on the Erie Bayfront.